Moisture Vs. Protein

[spongebobete]

Hi Natural Sistas!

I've been reading a lot about protein treatments and moisturizing DCs as well as moisturizing shampoos and protein shampoos. How do I know which one my hair needs or how often I should use either?

If someone could give examples of products that fall under each category (protein/moisture) and how they use them that would be soooo helpful. :wub:

I have a cheap cholesterol DC from my local BBS store and Miss Jessie's Deep Recovery Treatment. I also use Suave’s Coconut conditioner and Nexxus' Humectant Conditioner. Finally, I use Crème of Nature's Moisturizing shampoo.

Thanks in advance - I'm desperate to make 2008 the year of progress for my hair! :afro:

[SportinCurlz]

Ohhhh this is a GOOD question, I'd love to know the answer to this one also. I'm still learning the ropes myself.

[Napia Mia]

Well, here goes...

Your hair basically has three layers. The outter scales are your cuticles and they are there to protect your hair shaft. The next layer is your cortex. It's made up primarily of fibers made of protein and that's what gives your hair it's strength. The cortex is also where your hair store moisture. Moisture is needed to help keep your hair soft, and supple so that it isn't dry and brittle. Moisture is also needed so that your hair has good elasticity...meaning the ability to stretch. Pull a strand of your out or take a strand of shed hair and see how well it stretches before it breaks. If it breaks right away, it's not very well moisturized and perhaps may be damaged. Therefore elasticity is a good indication of how healthy your hair is.

Ah... I forgot about the third layer. It's the medula, which is the middle of the hair shaft. But since it really has no purpose guess that's why I forgot to say anything about it. :P

Anyhoo, all hair needs to be properly moisturized. Nappy hair is inherently dry. That's why everyone on this board is always scrambling to find a good moisturizing product. When you look for a good moisturizer, it's likely to be water-based. Look for water or aqua as one of the first ingredients in your product and you'll know that it's water-based.

NOTE: Don't confuse oil for moisture. Water=moisture. Oils can seal in moisture and help lubricate but they do not moisturize your hair.

Most hair can benefit from external applications of protein. Protein can bind to protein. How much you need really depends on the condition of your hair. Severely damaged and breaking hair will need protein treatments on a regular basis to help it become strong again and to stave off more damage. Products like Apohgee and Nexxus Emergencee are both good products that are basically straight protein. Just know that too much protein can have the opposite affect of what you're trying to accomplish. In other words, too much protein can cause your hair to become hard, dry and brittle. So I don't think you should use these types of products on your hair unless it's really damaged and even then, I probably wouldn't use it more than once a week.

Healthier hair most likely does not need much of an external source of protein. But if you look at the ingredients list, many products are indeed fortified with some type of protein. Shampoos, conditioners and many hair dressing are really good sources of protein as well. And again, if your hair is healthy, this probably all you'll ever need.

Oh, I think someone on NP posted a study about coconut oil being a substance that can actually penetrate the hair shaft and bind to the protein in your cortex and help to strengthen it. So it seems to me, that if you don't want to use protein, this can be an alternative way to help your hair retain/gain strength.

Ok... so I hope this helps.

[Hadasah]

http://www.nappturality.com/forum/index.ph...ir+breakage+101
There's a very helpful thread on moisture vs protein

[spongebobete]

Nappy Me thank you soooo much for your response. It helped me undersand a lot. I guess I need to study the ingrediants in my products more carefully to understand which is which. I was under the impression people switched between certain products depending on their hair needs, i.e. does it need more protein vs. moisture. Someone wrote that they use a moisturizing Deep Conditioner after they Henna to counter the dryness they incur. Is there such a things a a moisturizing DC? I thought they were all protein based?

In anycase, I am off to read the thread from the link above. Thanks so much for your response! :wub:

[Napia Mia]

Nappy Me thank you soooo much for your response. It helped me undersand a lot. I guess I need to study the ingrediants in my products more carefully to understand which is which. I was under the impression people switched between certain products depending on their hair needs, i.e. does it need more protein vs. moisture. Someone wrote that they use a moisturizing Deep Conditioner after they Henna to counter the dryness they incur. Is there such a things a a moisturizing DC? I thought they were all protein based?

In anycase, I am off to read the thread from the link above. Thanks so much for your response! :wub:
[/b]

There are tons of conditioners on the market and as many forumlations that are created for various needs. So if you are specifically looking for something that might help strengthen your hair, choose products that contain protein. Not all conditioners contain protein so you have to read the label.

As far as a DC being moisturizing, yes that's possible. Many conditioners and those meant "moisturize" the hair contain hygroscopic ingredients, which means they contain ingredients that attract allow your hair to attract and retain moisture. All conditioners are forumlated to leave something behind in the final rinse and so moisturizing conditioner leave hygroscopic ingredients behind that aid in helping your hair stay moisturized.

[apb1172]

I have also read that veggie protiens are less drying to your hair than animal.

[knharde]

^^^that's very true. Plant based proteins are smaller in molecular structure and adhere to microscopic areas of damage. They tend to be less drying and I use them every time I wash (I use herbal rinses).

[GalaxyGirl2012]

^^^that's very true. Plant based proteins are smaller in molecular structure and adhere to microscopic areas of damage. They tend to be less drying and I use them every time I wash (I use herbal rinses).
[/b]

this is why i only use soy and wheat based proteins. but these too can also cause a buildup like nappyme described. the good thing is that it takes longer for that buildup to be noticeable even if you use a plant based protein conditioner daily.

right now my ratio is 1 protein treatment every 3 moisturizing treatments

[Scrills]

Nappy Me said it..... My hair needs moisture, not protein. I put a protein treatment in last week and my hair became hard as a rock